The Wild West

It's time for a relaunch. The last few years have been rough. I'm finding my way back to the things that once made me happy, and finding happiness in reclaiming my passions. Two of these things are writing and traveling. My traveling did not stop, although some of the joy I took in it suffered. I have a lot of writing to do to catch up. I'll start in the present and go backwards in time.

Arizona 

One of the perks of working for a consulting company that sends me around the country and sometimes world for work is the ability to "flex travel" - to take an extra few days in a place to explore at little personal cost. I was able to do so this past week after I was in Flagstaff, Arizona for work. A coworker friend and myself stayed behind to visit the Lower and Upper Antelope Canyons, slot canyons made famous by National Geographic and more recently social media, as well as the grandest canyon of them all...

Flagstaff

But first, let's start with Flagstaff. Flagstaff is a mountain town whose character was described to me as "yuppie meets hippie." Very different style sensibilities from the East coast. Route 66 goes right through the middle of town, which is dotted with local coffee shops, unique eateries, old fashioned candy shops, and eccentric and colorful offerings such as "Crystal Magic." (Yes, I did purchase a chrysocolla to imbue me with "goddess energy" and a surprise $7 artisan candy apple.) I highly recommend the ramen from SoSoba, the homemade burrata from Fat Olives, and the mezcal jalapeño cocktails served nearly everywhere.

Down a side street in Flagstaff

Street murals are plentiful

Home of the $7 candy apple (delicious)

Goddess Energy from "Crystal Magic"

Antelope Canyon

The Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons reside on Navajo tribal land about two hours north of Flagstaff. They were often used as hiding places while the tribes were force-marched and relocated by the U.S. government. In this century, their hypnotic waved walls have become a popular destination and can only be explored on timed, guided tours run by the Navajo. There's a lot of advice online about the "best" time of day to go, and the consensus seems to be between 10-12 to catch the best light coming into the canyon. Our guide also said that May through August is the prime season for "light beams" to fall mysteriously like UFO tractor beams from the sky down to the canyon floor. However, I think that you could go at any time of the day or year and the canyons will be beautiful and you'll get some amazing pictures. 

Incredible lighting effects

Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon

We arrived early enough at Ken's Lower Antelope Canyon to get on the 9 am tour, but wanted to wait until our reservation time of 10 am to get the "better" light. In retrospect, the earlier tour may have been a better experience due simply to there being fewer people and having more unhurried time to wander through and marvel at nature's beauty. These canyons were underwater during their creation and carved over centuries by the power of water alone. We spent about an hour and 15 minutes in the canyon, which is about 3/4 of a mile long. It takes so long because most people are in it for the 'gram, and frankly it's difficult to keep yourself from snapping a new picture around every fantastic turn. The otherwise kind and informative guides occasionally have to get snappy after they've asked a particularly selfie-happy group to keep up with the tour for the twenty-fifth time. The guides are well-versed in where to take the best photos and the best camera settings for iPhones, Androids, and DSLRs alike. Our young guide earned himself a tip with this award winning masterpiece (to which he applied the black and white filter).

Canyon Magic

Upper Antelope Canyon

While you would not guess the existence of the Lower canyon from looking at the flat earth disguising it, the Upper Antelope Canyon rises up in front of you after a short, bumpy ride, like the beginning of an Indiana Jones movie. We hopped over for an afternoon tour shortly after completing the morning one. The Upper canyon is much deeper in the earth, and therefore colder and darker, and perhaps even more dramatic. If you were strapped on time or budget, you could see one or the other and be happy, but I enjoyed the subtle differences between the two. 

Looking up

Would not have figured this one out on my own <3

Often when I go to places like this that have become so popular and somewhat commoditized, I think of how incredible it must have been years before to explore in solitude and peace. However, I wouldn't dissuade you a visit, only encourage realistic expectations. These slot canyons are still a marvel to behold, and the interplay of light, shadow, texture, and movement is a photographer's dream.

Undulating canyon walls

Horseshoe Bend

We finished the day at the nearby Horseshoe Bend, which was an enjoyable change after the somewhat harried and contained morning in the slot canyons. Horseshoe Bend is a wide open and unregulated canyon in the shape of a horseshoe. Unregulated for now - our guide mentioned plans are in the work to charge admission in the next year. It's a fair walk to the canyon from the parking lot, but a pleasurable one through the vast, wide-open landscape that slowly reveals its treasure. We were there in the late afternoon golden hour and had a slow walk along the rim, pausing often for photo ops. 

Horseshoe Bend

Peering over the edge

Playing with exposure and filters

Perching on top of the world

Grand Canyon

We drove back to Flagstaff for the night and headed out to the Grand Canyon the next day before a redeye flight. This is the third time I've seen the Grand Canyon. It's difficult to describe the impact its immensity and grandeur has on the soul. It's like you see it with your eyes, but all your senses stand in awe. Even the best photos fail to accurately capture its scale. You can process the largeness of a place like Horseshoe Bend, the mind can comprehend it. The Grand Canyon boggles it all. The mighty Colorado is rendered the appearance of a muddy puddle next to the enormous, sheer, jagged canyon walls. We simply walked along the rim in quiet admiration until it was time to leave.

The Grand Canyon

Devil's Watchtower

The Wide Open West

It's been quite a long time since I've been in the great American West. It's so very different from the forested or farmed Midwest where I grew up or the hilly, tree-covered Northeast I now call home. The West is a special place where the land goes on forever and the earth gets big. The GPS made my travel partner and I laugh every time it would say something like, "Continue on this route for 140 miles." Then make a left. Then you've arrived.